In this travel log, I will document our trek to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) last December, through a series of pit stops we made at various teahouses. This concept of teahouse trekking may be something new and unfamiliar to you, but the essence of it is really simple. We went from one teahouse to another where we rested our aching legs (after hours of continuous trekking), grabbed some nosh, a cup of masala chai and met other hikers along the way. They were either headed in the same direction or were making their descent from ABC. It was also in these teahouses where travel stories were shared and friendships were formed. "From here, you can see Machhapuchhre over there," exclaimed Joti, our guide, who stopped in his steps ahead of us, pausing to relish in the beauty of Nepal's sacred peak. The locals refer to Machhapuchhre as the "Fish Tail mountain" because of its characteristic peak. We shared in Joti's delight and wondered to ourselves, how long will it actually take for us to reach Annapurna Base Camp (ABC)? We began our trek to ABC from Ghandruk, after a day of flying into Pokhara from Kathmandu and a backbreaking car ride into Nayapul that brought us to Kimche, nearer to Ghandruk. I still remember Joti's almost obsession with dal bhat, his daily staple containing vegetable curry, generous servings of rice, a crispy, fried papad, with a bowl of lentil soup. "Two meals every day. Lunch and dinner." "You need more rice for energy to hike! Dal bhat is the best thing to eat before hiking. It is a safe diet especially when you have several days to go before arriving at ABC," he said with a grin flashed across his face. Keeping to a strict vegetarian diet was the way to go in order to avoid possible cases of an upset stomach half-way through our trek. My favourite part of our daily treks is meeting these darlings, freely grazing on either side of the trail. There were no heaters in our rooms upstairs, except for the collective space where everyone gathered for dinner (I had the best egg curry here!) It became extremely chilly at night thus, being in the company of traveller-strangers sounded like a better idea than freezing upstairs. I chose conversations over hot tea and writing amidst the comfortable white noise to end off the night anytime. Trekking in the woods and between villages made me feel at times, refreshed, exhausted, depressed, thankful and introspective - a mixture of emotions and thoughts that beguiled me throughout the trek. The process is akin to a journey through life; we experience a roller coaster of ups and downs, sharp twists and turns that leave us with hanging, gasping and heart-dropping moments. I remembered asking Joti where the next teahouse was, how many more hours to go till we reach the next and then keeping quiet (to conserve energy) till we arrive in the evening. Food and rest were my sole motivators to keep going. Being surrounded by the mountains and taking thousands of steps before arriving at a destination, reminded me of how much growth we are capable of if we keep going to explore new and higher grounds. As we ascended to higher elevations, the weather conditions became more unpredictable. Our bodies responded instinctively at lower temperatures by constantly walking in order to stay warm. This scenic route towards Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) brought us alongside the Modi Khola river. The rush of waters against weathered rocks brought respite to the silence in my head, punctuated by screams of sheer exhaustion, amidst trekking through the sparse vegetation in early winter. "Be careful. Don't rush. Use your trekking poles properly. Eat garlic noodle soup later." Joti was afraid that we would succumb to High Altitude Sickness because we were to make an ascent of approximately 1000m in altitude within a few hours. Garlic helps to make the blood thinner and enhances blood circulation. It is useful in regulating the oxygen intake, thereby reducing the risk of experiencing breathlessness. We were enthralled by the majestic Himalayas. Every few steps forward led us to stop and revel in the quiet beauty of the mountain ranges. Therein lies the tranquility, the vastness and the wilderness. Inflated with excitement, our footsteps quickened, the fatigue lifted magically from our souls until signs of the base camp came into view. When evening time came, we stayed indoors, wrapped our fingers around metal cups of ginger tea and marvelled at the sight before us. It was surreal to have finally reached our destination after five days of trekking on end. This trip was a true test of my physical and mental strength, especially that of endurance. I also learnt more about my hiking buddy, Clarissa, and our guide, Joti, who ensured that he filled us in on details and shared his life stories and experiences with us as much as possible. He made hiking more enjoyable when he injected jokes in between tiring sections of the hike. There was also our porter, Bom, who we were immensely grateful for taking care of us and our backpacks. This journey wouldn't be as memorable if not for their company. I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery; air, mountains, trees, people.
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