Two weeks ago, I went on a hiking trip to Kamikochi to chase the colours of Autumn. After that, I proceeded to Nakatsugawa city, where I hiked along the Nakasendo 中山道 trail between Magome 馬籠 and Tsumago 妻籠, two post towns 宿場 that were part of the trading route connecting Edo (modern day Tokyo) and Kyoto. The main transportation network through the mountains was created by people who relied on walking (and some with their horses) to get to places, bringing with them livestock, produce and valuable items for trade in the town markets, where economic transactions primarily took place. Taking into account all that happened decades ago after reading up a little about the history of post towns, walking through Magome and Tsumago gave me a substantial context to understand their importance and functions in ancient Japan. The Nakasendo route somehow reminded me of the Kumano Kodo 熊野古道 pilgrimage route that I had gone on earlier this Spring in Wakayama Prefecture - walking through the cobble-stoned trails with the towering pine trees overhead and the pockets of sunshine filtering in through the canopy. However, what was different this time on the Nakasendo was the presence of bells and an accompanying cautionary sign that warns hikers of the existence of bears in the area. I had lost count of the number of times I rang those bells. Just in case. They gave me the confidence and a peace of mind to move ahead. While walking, I came up with a bear contingency plan. What if I were to meet one (or several) in the most unfortunate scenarios? I shall play dead and remain motionless, just like what I have learnt from movies. In any case, I do know this: never stare at them in the eye or try to attack them first. Well, if there is something I am really afraid of now while hiking in the wilderness, it's coming in close encounter with bears. I will actually consider buying a bear bell now for future hiking trips through the woods. Walking from Magome to Tsumago, a 7.7km mostly downhill stretch, I passed by several houses that were emptied out, or left vacant and unoccupied. Abandoned properties. How long have they been left abandoned? Where did their previous residents go to? Have they moved closer to the big cities like neighboring Nagoya or Matsumoto in search of better job prospects, or for the sake of convenience and accessibility? Most houses in the area function as ryokans (or guesthouses) for people who would like to stay for a night or two. Some double up as soba restaurants (Nagano is famous for its soba, buckwheat noodles 蕎麦) and gift shops selling traditional souvenirs that reflect Nakasendo's feudal and historical roots. I came across a duck pen, several storage sheds that housed cut wood probably in preparation for burning to generate heat in the coming winter months. I saw patches of vegetation grown on small family plots surrounding the farmhouses scattered in and in the proximity of the post towns.
I arrived in Tsumago when the sun was about to set at close to 4 and was hit with a sudden realisation. Early sunsets make me flustered because I lose track of my sense of time. There is also a kind of indescribable anguish growing inside about the things I wish I could do given more daylight. Nights spent indoors become unbearably long and can sometimes be unproductive. Nevertheless, I am going to embrace Autumn now while it lasts.
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